1. The oring that I changed to get better FPS/compression was just the piston O-ring
2. The VSR already has a cylinder that is way to big for the stanard barrel. By taking off the airbreak you are just increasing the cylinder volume. This will increase the waist air that comes out the end of the barrel once the bb has left. So it will most likely increase the volume of the cracking sound.
If you increase the barrel length, then you can cut the airbreak and it can help increase the FPS. Especially if you can match the right cylinder to barrel volumes.
3. 55 degree bucking does work but you just need to be careful. I have even seen it somewhere else on this site. Check under the heading of "Buckings" about halfway down the page:
http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/showthread.php?t=684
4. Filling voids is popular and does work but I would rather keep the gun light. You will most likely find that if you match the cylinder and barrel ratios that this will be better than making your gun heavy. My gun is realy, really quiet. (Need to make sure you have a good foam dampening system too.
5. Trying to match the correct Cylinder to Barrel volumes can also depend on the weight of the bb's but I have found that with my gun I can use anywhere between 0.25gm to 0.36gm and there is not much differnece in sound.
There are a lot of ratios out there that people have tried and may work for them. I have found (in my opinion) that the best length barrel for a standard cylinder is a 550mm barrel. This is a ratio of 2.147. I would not risk a ratio of 2:1 (cylinder:barrel). This would mean you would need a barrel of 580mm long. This will not work as I have tried it. I have used a number of different barrel lengths and 550mm seemed best.
Feel free to try it though as I would be interested in your results.
6. The increase from 525 to 570-580fps was with 0.2gm bb's. The original barrle length was 430mm.
It was very good compression. I have pulled apart my VSR10's a lot and I have only ever been about to get perfect compression like that a few times. (Next time I get such good compression, I am not going to pull it apart so quickly)
7. I would think that foam is better in an silencer than having a plastic lining that has holes. I would think that foam would absorb more sound.
8. AEG barrel mod is good. Real good.
9. 0.4gm bb's may outweight the problem with airbubbles but with a 500fps gun the bb's start to lob more. I normally sight my gun in at my rifle range down the back of my propperty which is 50m's long. I found that with 0.36gm bb's, the flight path was more arking. With 0.3gm the bb's are flying near straight to the target.
If you sight a 0.4gm bb onto a target at 50m's it will be more accurate at 50m's compared to a 0.3gm bb. This is because it is not affected by wind and airbubbles so much. So it will travel along the same path (an ark) each time better than the lighter bb. But at other ranges the 0.3gm bb should be more accurate as the bb travels in a straighter line. Not so much of an ark.
1/ This is what we have found, and there is a hell of a lot of difference between manufacturers aswell, a few years back there was a rage about X rings, but after alot of head to head testing we found that there realy wasn't any advantage, depending on what you were looking for, the consesus was an X ring gave more consistency but dragged the fps down due to the extra drag of what was effectively a double O ring :shrug:
2/ Agreed, the cylinder is way to big for the stock barrel, and as Noobie proved in his musings about his BAR-10s, though he approached it from the 'other end' of the thinking by making sure the BB was still in the barrel when the piston hit home.
What needs to be remembered about airbrakes though is.... as soon as you do
any porting work to the cylinder head the airbrake is there purely as a volume filler so might aswell be left on to maximise air pushed out the barrel :yup:
3/ This is why I'm doing current testing on the 'J' hop, if you use bathroom grade silicon sealant and a hard rubber you get the best of both worlds.... in theory.... as the silicon is very soft, yet very wear restant ant very stable at the pressures we demand of it, and combined with a hard rubber to maximise sealing at the nozzle you ''should'' end up with the perfect hop.... ish :shrug: The execution of said hop is quite easy, its the getting it right that is the real ball ache, and as I said testing continues as so far results have been impressive but not ideal as yet :shrug:
4/ I always try to fill the voids on my stock with either resin or 2 pack filler as I like the dead feel to the stock when the gun is fired, I can understand the 'keep it light' theory, but I'm a hairy arsed builder during the working week, so weight for me isn't realy an issue unless its my MOD14 then even I have reservations :doh:
5/ I think alot of it is to do with actual individual set up, I mean, My long VSR is quiet, but that has a suppressor fitted, my mates on the other hand runs a 550mm barrel to the end of a PDI barrel, that also runs a bore-up cylinder, with only an Oring glued to the cylinder head as a buffer and, if anything, is a tad quieter than mine :nuts: we both use the same .3 ammo, and are both running at just over 500fps :shrug:
6/ some times its better to follow the 'if it aint broke, don't fix it' philosophy >
7/ Actualy the foam and baffel method, with the baffels set at varying distances, breaks up and re-directs the sound wave more effectively than foam alone, as it re-directs the sound back towards the gun and into the foam, while also reducing the sound wave oscilation by forcing it through a smaller hole, rather than relying on the foam alone to adsorb any sound waves that happen to be flying by :shrug: also the more open grained the foam is the better :tup:
8/ Agreed. Its how I got shot of that piece of crap ally barrel out of the DE M50 :yup: but I span mine up in a drill and used a dremel and filr to re-apply the sealing groove in the right place, then just used floss to hold it in place and seal it.
9/ Mate, you realy need to try an LRB out, your gona love it for the flatter flight trajectory it gives :tup: Both me and my mate use .3s exclusively in our BASRs, we tried .4s but here in the UK the light and back ground colours play tricks on the tan colour and you might aswell be using black BBs, Ive only ever found 1 site here that you can see them for over 75% of the shots fired :shrug: Someone realy needs to invent a white .4 or even .36 again if you ask me