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Simple answer: No.

What the LRB does is stabilize the backspin by forcing the bb to the top of the barrel as it exits, so the bb basically rides along the top. This stabilized backspin the allows the bb to maintain it's straight trajectory for a longer period of time. You want to get as straight a trajectory as possible.

Just a little physics lesson: The hopup causes the bb to vibrate in the air, thus putting the center of rotation off the bb's center of mass. This vibration causes the bb to become unstable, and makes the backspin slow down faster. The r-hop applies the backspin at a much slower rate than a bucking, so the bb is much more stable. The LRB has the same effect.

EDIT: By the way, the TDC mod isn't only used for getting the hop straight. It also allows you to apply much more pressure than with the regular adjusters, and it allows you to access the adjuster more easily. It can also hold its place for a much longer period of time than a slider or wheel adjuster will.
 

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I have heard of this glass barrel experiment but the way I heard it was they found the bb to be bouncing around. If you got this info first hand though then I can't really argue with that. What I can say though s the LRB does give a flatter trajectory, when tuned properly. There is an LRB guide in the general section. Start by bending it 2m (measure it, don't estimate) and move it around a little bit, bringing it down to 1 1/2mm then close to 3mm. If it isn't tuned properly you will still see good reslts but they won't be AS good.

Maybe the difference between the LRB and the bb ridng the top in an unbent barrel is like the difference between pressing lightly on a file and really digging it into the wood. I'm still fairly certain the bb does not ride the top in an unbent barrel though.

@Vindi- I didnt realize anyone was still doing testing with the j-hop. Tell us how it turns out.
 

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The same goes for bull barrels. They will hold their bend after a little while and just be harder to bend in the first place. If you use a wedge or a set screw bending it a few mm isn't that hard in the first place though.
 

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The LRB works fantastically with the TDC an r-hop. When you say poor man's chrono, you are talking about the coke can method, right?
 

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There really aren't any downsides I can think of off hand. How much range increase you get depends on how well you do it. That's like asking how much range you should be getting after you install x y and z parts. It all depends on how well you do it and how well you can fine tune it later. Read through the "diy one piece barrel spacer and LRB guide" in the general section. Read the comments too. That should tell you what you are looking for.

How easy it will be to do an LRB in a suppressor will depend on what's inside. If it is just a tube inside the suppressor like the outer barrel, it shouldn't be too hard. If it is a bunch of foam or a hollow space, it will be a little harder. Like I said, look through the LRB guide in the general section (it's stickied) and there are different methods people use of doing the LRB.

One more note on the LRB: if you do it, put the rear spacer at the rear 1/3 of the barrel and the front spacer at the far front. It's better to have a gradual bend rather than a sharp turn. And don't do the LRB if you have a bull or a steel barrel. After a little while they will hold their bend, unlike the thinner normal brass barrels.
 

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You know there is already an LRB guide, right? It's in the general section, and it's also a wax barrel spacer guide. It wouldn't hurt to have two though.
 

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I think it's good to have things seperated into different threads, but have them all stickied. It helps to keep evering organizedinstead of having to scroll through one massize thread. Otherwise, why would we have so many sub-forums. You are right that a lot of threads repeat themselves, and thet's why we are trying to sticky the really important ones. And if something isn't important enough to be stickied like r-hop questions, but the threads keep getting repeated, then you can link to them all in one place like I did with the r-hop database.
 

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It doesn't matter if you have a straight or tapered barrel if you do a wax spacer. Even with normal spacers, the tapered barrel might be better because once it gets to a part of the barrel that's too small, it will wedge itself in. Although the straight barrel would be easier to do the LRB with because to can position the spacer exactly without having to add tape or take off material on the outside of the spacer to get it stuck at the right part of the tapered barrel.
 

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Before you go modding the airseal, see if it is good already. First put your finger over the nozzle of the cylinder with the barrel off and shoot. If air only comes out when you take your finger offn you are good in that department. Then put your finger on the end of the barrel with it attached and shoot. If air leaks from the hopup try using dental floss on the bucking. Try it again and then if it still doesn't have the perfect seal, drill out your chamber and heat shrink the nozzle. Just remember you can always put some tape in the chamber or an ABB ring on the bucking instead to hold it down to the nozzle.
 

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If you have an extremely long barrel and the bb doesn't exit by the time the piston hits the cylinder head, only then would it decrease fps. But you probably don't have that long of a barrel.
 

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The piston and cylinder head have nothing to do with each other. If the piston fits in the sane cylinder the cylinder head fits on, it will be fine. It's not like they have to fit into each other.
 

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The only manufacturer you have to worry about not being compatible with other parts is pdi. Some pdi parts just only work with other pdi parts. Other than pdi, if it says vsr compatible (or in laylax's case, pss10 compatible), it will work with all other vsr parts.
 
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