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It is not the cylinder to barrel ratio. Without the LRB the gun fires great. It is really accurate. But I wanted to see if I could get it better.
The Barrel is an Action Army 6.03 x 540mm. (If you have seen other Action Army items you will know that they are really high quality).
Cheer though for trying.
I've heard of action army, basically tier 2 when it comes to z triggers, etc. I've read somewhere that LRBs sometimes won't benefit your gun, but that depends on each individual gun, as no 2 guns are the same, even if its the same model made by the same company.

You might just have to move on and stick with the TDC mod, stabilization mods, etc.
 
I've heard of action army, basically tier 2 when it comes to z triggers, etc. I've read somewhere that LRBs sometimes won't benefit your gun, but that depends on each individual gun, as no 2 guns are the same, even if its the same model made by the same company.

You might just have to move on and stick with the TDC mod, stabilization mods, etc.
I have done most other mods that you can do on a Bar10. Just need to perfect the LRB. Will work on it next time I pull it apart.
 
Discussion starter · #64 ·
Is that a joke?
Cause it was kinda funny lol.

Nothing about this mod silences the gun nor could it even really fit on a real firearm. When I said suppressor I meant the looks of one(because some/most people like them solely based on looks). Not one that actually suppresses your shots.
 
Is that a joke?
Cause it was kinda funny lol.

Nothing about this mod silences the gun nor could it even really fit on a real firearm. When I said suppressor I meant the looks of one(because some/most people like them solely based on looks). Not one that actually suppresses your shots.
Agreed. and btw, you can't really make a *functional* silencer/suppressor for an airsoft gun anyways. Most of the noise from the shot comes from the piston/cylinder assembly anyways.
 
Agreed. and btw, you can't really make a *functional* silencer/suppressor for an airsoft gun anyways. Most of the noise from the shot comes from the piston/cylinder assembly anyways.
I'd like to challenge that. My silencer does suppress the output noise quite a bit.
 
As long as you have the barrel and the screw in the mock suppressor perfectly centered it will not miss the inner barrel when you start trying to adjust it correct? I know it will be pressing down on a small surface area. Also, has anyone tried this on a steel barrel? My only two barrels are steel.. I figure I might as well try them since otherwise they will be just sitting in my junk parts pile.
 
Few questions before I try this mod:

> How did you get the nut on the inside of the PVC? Could you explain, please?

> I run a 430mm inner barrel in a 690mm outer barrel (only because PDI sent the wrong one) and so there is a gap from the end of the inner barrel to the end of the outer barrel. Will I need to consider this when doing the LRB/suppressor mod?

> I think I'm unsure about the layers involved, too. Am I right in saying it starts with the inner barrel, followed by the metal piping, followed by foam, followed by outer barrel and finally followed by the two layers of PVC piping?

Thanks, Milo.
 
Few questions before I try this mod:

> How did you get the nut on the inside of the PVC? Could you explain, please?

> I run a 430mm inner barrel in a 690mm outer barrel (only because PDI sent the wrong one) and so there is a gap from the end of the inner barrel to the end of the outer barrel. Will I need to consider this when doing the LRB/suppressor mod?

> I think I'm unsure about the layers involved, too. Am I right in saying it starts with the inner barrel, followed by the metal piping, followed by foam, followed by outer barrel and finally followed by the two layers of PVC piping?

Thanks, Milo.
1) JB weld/cement clue/etc, anything gooy and sticks with hold the nut to the pvc pipe. IF the nut is rounded, that's even better, because there's more surface area for the jb weld/etc to stick on.

2) The mod for you will NOT require the pvc pipe because the inner barrel is shorter than the outer. So basically, the outer barrel will act like the PVC pipe. Only downside is that you'll be drilling 1 hole for the up and down adjustments, and might need 2 more for left and right, because you won't be able to turn the barrel, like you would with a PVC suppressor.

3) If I understood this correctly, you should only need the inner barrel surrounded by foam, and then the outer barrel. If you want to use a PVC pipe and avoid drilling multiple holes on your outer, replace the outer barrel.
 
Aureus, could I still use the PVC pipe method? I would like to make a mock suppressor anyway so this mod is two birds with one stone, if I can!

Cheers for the help!

Edit: Couldn't I do the PVC method by just covering the excess outer barrel and a bit more over the inner barrel?
 
Discussion starter · #73 ·
You kinda need the inner barrel to stick out past the outer barrel to do it this way. If the inner barrel is shorter you will have to do it like Aureus said, and then you can stick the pvc suppressor on the barrel over the screws to hide them.

And the metal pipe is only used to keep the screw from digging into the barrel. You probably don't need it but I put it there just in case.

And the layers you listed are correct.
 
Thanks,

Sorry if I am appearing dumb but I don't see why the inner barrel must be longer, haha!
Well, the whole point of the PVC was to avoid mauling the outer barrel. What you COULD do, is to just simply cut the outer barrel to G Spec length/pro length ( TM VSR10) and have the inner barrel stick out past the outer by like 5-8mm ( enough for a screw to push evenly on the inner barrel) The screw is like the force pushing downwards, whereas that single spacer is the fulcrum, which provides that bend for the LRB to work. Plus, having the inner barrel longer just makes it easier to glue the nut onto something that's removable ie the PVC pipe.

You could glue the nut to the outer barrel, as mentioned earlier, but its just not smart, because LRBs sometimes will provide NO additional benefit to the gun ( every gun is different, so LRB results can never be duplicated down to the last speck of detail). Unfortunately, you won't know whether it'll benefit your gun until you try it, thus the need for the temporary/less expensive method ie the PVC pipe suppressor/slip on LRB.
 
Ahh I see, so the PVC acts as a detachable LRB adjuster, rather than a fixed one like a TDC adjuster. Thanks! I'll have a play around with my gun and see what I can do.
 
So after doing a lot of research on LRBs I have come up with a simple and effective way to do it. This way that I have done it is a combination of many different ways that i have seen and read people doing. In order to do this mod your inner barrel will have to stick our past the outer barrel. So lets get to it.

Tools:
Set screw or any screw you prefer
Nut to fit screw
Drill
Drill Bit a little bit smaller than screw
JB weld or some kind of strong glue
Super Glue or Gurrila Glue
2 Pieces of PVC
High Density Foam
Electrical Tape
Metal Pipe that fits over inner barrel

Here is a picture of some of the stuff you will need
Image


Step one:
Make a barrel spacer that fits very tight, like this..
Image

Place the barrel spacer about 1/3 of the barrel length away from your hop up unit.

Step two:
Put the metal pipe on the tip of your barrel about half an inch from the end of your inner barrel. This is so when you adjust the screw you wont dig it into your precious inner barrel. Make sure it is secure and fits tight of the barrel, like this..
Image


Step three:
Find a piece of PVC that fits very tight around your outer barrel, and cut it to how ever long you want your suppressor to be. Now take another piece of PVC(same legnth as first piece) that fits tight over the first piece of PVC. Now glue these two piece together, so it will look like this...
Image


Step four:
Now you want to drill a small hole in the newly made suppressor about an inch back from the front. Here is a technique to make sure you get the hole in the center of the pvc. Put a quarter or some thing flat on the top of the suppressor and then put a mark right where the quarter touches the pvc in the center. Like this.......
Image

Now Drill the hole. If you are using a hand drill make sure you have it perfectly straight.

Step five:
Screw the set screw into the pvc so that some of the screw sticks out on the inside. Now screw the nut onto the screw. tighten the nut down and then put some jb weld around it. Like this...
Image


This is so when the threads on the pvc wear out you will have the nut. Let this dry for 24 hours.

Step six:
Cut a small piece of some high density foam and glue it to the metal pipe at the end of your inner barrel. I used so pipe insulation you can buy at like Lowes or Home Depot. Make sure the foam is really thick. This foam is to make sure the inner barrel is being pressed up tight against the set screw. If you can think of something better to use then foam let me know!

Step seven:
slide the suppressor over your inner barrel so that the set screw lines up with the metal pipe at the end of your inner barrel.
If the suppressor is to loose you can put e-tape around your outer barrel to make it a tighter fit.

Step eight:
Adjust the screw till of have the barrel move 1-2mm from the center. Now TEST! To adjust for side to side curve just twist the suppressor till the bb flies straight. Twisting the suppressor till the bb flies straight will verify that the bend in the barrel is straight up and down.

Congratulations you know have a new suppressor and LRB!:cheers:
Here is the rifle i did it too. A Well MB04
Image


Now i could tell your after doing this mod your gun will be shooting ten times further but i have no clue how much further it will shoot. >:D

Now take this idea and make it into what will fit your gun and your preference. And let everybody know of any thing you have done different by posting here.

I have not done any crazy before and after test so if you want to do that then go for it and let us know how it went.

Thanks for reading and i hope it works out great! :tup:
About using the quarter to get the center of the pvc, the pvc is round so no matter where you drilled it would be the "center". or am I missing something? lol
 
Discussion starter · #80 · (Edited)
Believe it or not you can actually miss the center with the drill. Then that would cause the screw to be slightly off by a few mm and since we are only moving the barrel a few mm that makes a big difference on your shot.


Maybe this will clear it up. Say you drill straight down to the right of the center. Now your screw will not split the circle in half but it will be to one side of the circle and probably clip the barrel and not have even pressure.

Now say you drill to the right of the center but at an angle so that it splits the circle in half then yes that would work but do you know what angle to drill at so that the screw will split the circle in half? I don't. Lol
 
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