[r33ce97]

I get what your saying but I don't see how using the quarter would help to drill a straight hole. It's no problem, whatever helps. I was just making sure I wasn't having a blonde moment. lol

 

[Aureus]

I'm back!!! with another quick update on my LRB.. lol.

Anyways, a quick replay: Did the LRB following this guide, ended up with a hollow sounding gun ( only spacer was inside the barrel 1/3 of the way, thus having an enormous pocket of air for sound to bounce around.

I took off the PVC pipe today ( quick tip when heating the pipe: use aluminum foil, it transfers heat, similar to a heat gun, w/o burning it if you're using the stove fire method like I did) and started stuffing some foam that's 25mm thick down the outer barrel. After some 20 pieces I've noticed that it started to get harder to apply the downward effect of the LRB with just my finger.. However, this method is similar to the wax LRB method where the entire inner and outer barrel becomes one ( just like a real steel). The only vibration I noticed with my eyes, is the forward movement as the piston slams into the cylinder head. Haven't test fired it yet, be it looks pretty promising. I just worry that the amount of force required to push the inner barrel downwards might backfire and break the jb weld off the nut that's holding the screw in place for the LRB effect.

The sound is a lot more 'solid', not as quiet as I wanted, but obviously better than a hollow sounding gun. Speaking of vibrations earlier, I've also used the "Great Stuff" foam and filled the entire stock.. Apparently it's now heavier by like 1-2lbs, or so it feels like, but everything sounds a lot more sturdier/solid. I might need to put some found inside the cylinder head to dampen the sound a bit more, but until then, I'll be continuing on stuffing foam down the outer barrel lol...

 

[TheHunter]

Thats weird that you have that pop sound. I don't have that sound on mine and it is also pretty dang quiet. How far is your inner barrel inside the suppressor? My inner barrel is lined up flush with the suppressor.

The foam should be good to help absorb some of the vibrations, so now it will be even more accurate! Make sure you don't have it so packed that it is causing the barrel to bend some where else other than the 1/3 mark.

 

[Aureus]

Thats weird that you have that pop sound. I don't have that sound on mine and it is also pretty dang quiet. How far is your inner barrel inside the suppressor? My inner barrel is lined up flush with the suppressor.

The foam should be good to help absorb some of the vibrations, so now it will be even more accurate! Make sure you don't have it so packed that it is causing the barrel to bend some where else other than the 1/3 mark.

Lol.. actually before the barrel 'stuffing', it had a hollow thunk sound. I might need to remove the foam and redo it, since its packed pretty tight inside.. I test fired it w/o the suppressor and it was shooting to the upper right quadrant of my scope instead of the straight up of my scope following the 'y axis' line. After the foam rework, I'll test fire it again.. The foam I use is similar to the ones used in sofas..

 

[Wreckn]

So I want to do the LBR mod on my bar 10. I've been reading a lot about it, and have my own idea of how to achieve this, but want to get some opinions before I attempt it.

I'm running a 430 mm km head barrel and have it sitting in the pdi fluted bull barrel. I don't really want to drill any more holes in my barrel since the TDC mod made me cry enough. And I don't want to make my rifle any longer with a suppressor. So here's my thought.

Place a barrel spacer 1/3 of the way down the barrel

Modify a second barrel spacer so that the center where the barrel sits is milled out 3 mm. Then add 3mm of shims to the opposite side.

Place this barrel spacer at the end of the barrel.

In theory the off center barrel spacer will create the bend in the barrel. If needed you can rotate the barrel spacer till the gun is shooting straight.

Basically what I'm asking is will this even work on my setup, and if the lRB will work on my setup do you think my idea of how to do it is practical.

Any feedback is appreciated.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 2 using Tapatalk

 

[TheHunter]

I thought about a similar idea but to use the end cap. And just sand it down a few mm and place shims on to to keep the barrel steady. But I decided against it because adjusting the bend it a little bit harder then adjusting a screw.

 

[Aureus]

So, before I part with my L96, I decided to rework the LRB mod.. I cut a brand new PVC pipe, drilled a hole barely smaller than the nut, and pushed it inside. This makes the entire pipe flush, and not leaving this ugly bump on the top. I then proceeded to apply jb weld on the outside ( will sand down when its finished curing) and a lil bit inside the pipe. This helps the nut stay completely in place and I don't need to worry about it popping out if I applied too much pressure with the screw ( the nut tends to push upwards and pop out if it isn't secured enough)

Currently the pipe isn't really aligned with the inner barrel yet, so when I'm done with sanding and attaching a front end cap, I'll reheat the pipe and align it correctly. Then its onto a matching paintjob with my rifle and finally, to ship it to the lucky buyer~

Btw, I plan to cut the screw to length, thus minimizing the entire LRB's profile..

 

[TheHunter]

Looks good! Why don't you use a set screw so then the screw is practically invisible?

 

[Masterjuggler98]

Looks good! Why don't you use a set screw so then the screw is practically invisible?

You could actually just cut the head off the screw and cut a slot in top with a dremel cut off wheel. Then you can use it as a set screw with a flat head.

Actually, I might just have to do that when I make an LRB like this lol.

 

[Aureus]

Looks good! Why don't you use a set screw so then the screw is practically invisible?

Oh I didn't have one in my dad's screw misc bin and I didn't feel like driving out to Home Depot for it. Not to mention, I'm selling this rifle, so even if I do expend the extra effort/gas for it, I won't be able to use it lol.

You could actually just cut the head off the screw and cut a slot in top with a dremel cut off wheel. Then you can use it as a set screw with a flat head.

Actually, I might just have to do that when I make an LRB like this lol.

That's a pretty good idea.. I wish I have a dremel, but its not really worth it for me to go out and get one since I won't be using it much.

 

[Masterjuggler98]

You don't need a dremel, it's probably just the easiest tool for this job. If you have a hack saw you can do the same job.

 

[Aureus]

You don't need a dremel, it's probably just the easiest tool for this job. If you have a hack saw you can do the same job.

meh, my hacksaw disappeared on me... I had to use a jigsaw to cut the PVC pipe instead ( probably the best impromptu method I ever thought of , aside from a table saw, which my dad won't ever let me operate)

 

[Aoi Jun]

Any suggestion which brand of inner barrel that work best for LRB?
I use Prometheus and it is difficult to bend properly for LRB.

 

[TheHunter]

I highly recommend Madbull barrels. Cheap great barrels that bend well for the LRB.

 

[SamuraiBrah]

I have this cool quick-detach silencer that I've been wondering what to do with. After seeing this sticky, I think it would be pretty easy to LRB it. It'll have to wait until I buy a new hop-up and a pre-installed r hop barrel from Clandestine before I do it though.

With the quick-detach feature, it should be very easy to "undo" the bend on the barrel when not in use. Literally takes a second to pull off. Only problem I can tell is that there is a very slight movement from the silencer to the mount. It can twist about maybe .5mm-.3mm side to side, but that shouldn't be a big problem. I might have to find a way to shim it.

The silencer is attached to an AEG as I am waiting for an adapter in the mail for my MB05. The barrel inside the silencer isn't attached to any gun, just to show how it would be set up. There is about a 1/8" (~3.2mm) gap between the barrel and the side of the silencer. Would I even need to use a set screw?

Tell me what you think guys.

 

[TheHunter]

You might be able to make some shims that could do the job. I used a screw because the adjustment is easier and fine tunning when testing is easier with a screw.

And the barrel won't have a 3.2 mm bend because you have to take into account when the barrel is in the gun, then the inner barrel will be centered in the hole of that extension. So really you will only get about 1.6 mm max bend which may be enough. You will have to test to see.

 

[SamuraiBrah]

Oh man, I don't want to have a screw poking out of my suppressor. Then again, it'll be covered in burlap/jute anyway. Maybe I can set the screw so that it is flush.

As far as only having a 1.6mm bend I don't get it. If the tip of the barrel is pressed down 3.2mm is that not 3.2mm of bend? The hole you are looking at goes all the way through the suppressor, except for the first 2-3" which is even bigger.

 

[Sneaktheif]

Two things, one, you could use a set screw. The ones that have the Allen head in them and that don't stick out. Two, no that is not 3.2mm of bend. It is kinda deceiving. Think of it as a change in the center of the barrel. Imagine a crosshair centered in you barrel. Because your barrel starts centered in the suppressor, not pressed against the top, the center of your barrel only moves half the distance. If your barrel was originally pressed against the top of your suppressor and you forced it to the bottom, then the distance from the inside of the suppressor to the top of your barrel would be the total bend. Make sense? Hope this helps. Confused me at first too.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

[SamuraiBrah]

I get in now, and feel like an idiot. :ashamed: Good idea with the allen head screw, it might actually look like it came with the suppressor. I just hope 1.6mm will be enough.

 

[Masterjuggler98]

I mentioned before how to make a set/grub screw by taking the head off a normal screw and cutting a slot in the top for a flathead. That way you can cut it just short enough that it will be hidden.

1.6mm might not bring it to its potential, but it should still help.