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Silverback Tac41

26855 Views 100 Replies 16 Participants Last post by  TenshouYoku
Just got my sba tac41 a few days ago.
I do not have time to run a full review at one phase so I will post in segments when I have time to look at different aspects of the rifle.
19039

First thing first, this rifle is solid.
Feels just as it should, the barrel really free floats in the stock, the handling is smooth and everything works as supposed to.
Assembly and dissasembly is quite simple also.
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Today it's the cylinder unit.
The piston bodies are compatible, just as the piston heads. As you see already installed the sear end on a VMP. For the removal I just used the nut included with the VMP and a screwdriver as a lever through the piston side hole. It also fits MouseFart piston head.

The good news is, since the cylinder head is full cncd so the brakes works even better than on the SRS. The 'bad' news is I had to install an other bumper O ring on the brake as you see (will be included in all MF order from now on). This required because the original piston head is 1mm longer, and with the MF the sear end slides 1mm further, so the sear can not engage the piston. With the extra O ring as a temporarly solution it works as intended. Already changed the design on MF1.4 to adapt this.

Regard muzzle energy and noise output you can expect about the same as in the SRS with similar setup. The sound is a little sharper and springy twang, but these are just the very first shots I took without optimaliseation. Racking of the bolt is very smooth already, got to get used to the old style bolt loading again 馃槄

The engagement of the sear is really effortless just as it should be, more on that on the trigger group segment.
So far happy!

Until next post feel free to post questions if you have any so I can take a look at those parts specially.
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How do you like the Gurren, how's it compared to other barrels?
It, well, works. No visible issues or uneven chromed surface, doesn't seem to scratch easily. Shoots straight and at a decent price that's not horribly expensive for a chromed carbon steel barrel.
That's really all to it so far.
The chamber is indeed a tad tighter than the srs one, its tricky to assble correctl with some barrelst.
For example with my or pdi barrels the barrel fits ~0.2mm less deep than in the srs for same function.
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Took my TAC41 today to a game originally meant to just be there and test it's performance using the abundant space the field provided, but ended up actually using it in games

I suck and couldn't actually hit anything, but as far as performance goes outside of a few user errors the rifle has been performing excellently, every shot as long as the wind is calm is incredibly straight and accurate (against non-fleeting, stationary targets).

With a stock bucking this is already quite the impressive performance and definitely top tier as far as field usable goes.
I managed to get the rifle out yesterday, and the only upgrade I had in it was the 2.8J spring, but.. This gun is going to have to sit on the backburner for a while with me.

I hadn't realized it, but the field I play on is a lot of fast paced action, small to medium sized maps, occasionally a large map. But I've gotten so used to the 1" bolt pull on the Striker, making super fast follow-up shots, so much so that I can't commit fully to the Tac41. With that being said, Mancraft has already stated in a comment that they're working on an SDiK kit for it, so the day that becomes available, you best believe I'll be one of the first to order it.

With all that said and done, mine does need some work. To no fault of their own, mine became a lemon due to some.. unforeseen circumstances. The orange tip fiasco that shredded my bucking, replaced the bucking, barrel is most likely warped, and the fact that one of the sling points gave out 3 times (not sure if it's a flaw with the sling point or the rifle's sling mount), but when the rifle was slung with the barrel facing down and the sling point gave out, the barrel hit the ground from about 2 feet up. From then on, I noticed the shots were more or less straight, but they were.. angled, from left to right. The scope didn't hit the ground, it was just the barrel that hit the dirt at an angle, and I managed to catch the rifle before it completely fell over. It's not some cheapo airsoft scope that got knocked out of alignment, this is a real steel legit Vortex scope.

In other news, I'd also bought the Stalker variable weight piston for the Tac41, but.. there's basically no documentation on how to assemble it. Just a handful of weights, a spring guide, a ton of o-rings, a piston head, an airbreak, and two rings - one of which being a guide ring, and the other being the sear ring. Which ring is which? Where does each go? Nobody knows. I looked up a video of someone else using it and copied their assembly, and had zero air seal and a drop from 2.7J with the stock piston to a 2.3J with the Stalker piston, only to be told in the facebook group by Stalker that it's wrong.

I want to like this rifle. I really do. But for my playstyle of fast-paced, quick follow up shots, it's just not in the cards for me at the moment. If I could have it my way, I'd definitely get a shorter barrel and basically replicate my AS01 setup - Get a 330mm outer barrel and a ~417mm inner barrel, throw on my "mock" suppressor, get the SDiK for it, and voila - another faithful scout sniper setup.
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I managed to get the rifle out yesterday, and the only upgrade I had in it was the 2.8J spring, but.. This gun is going to have to sit on the backburner for a while with me.

I hadn't realized it, but the field I play on is a lot of fast paced action, small to medium sized maps, occasionally a large map. But I've gotten so used to the 1" bolt pull on the Striker, making super fast follow-up shots, so much so that I can't commit fully to the Tac41. With that being said, Mancraft has already stated in a comment that they're working on an SDiK kit for it, so the day that becomes available, you best believe I'll be one of the first to order it.

With all that said and done, mine does need some work. To no fault of their own, mine became a lemon due to some.. unforeseen circumstances. The orange tip fiasco that shredded my bucking, replaced the bucking, barrel is most likely warped, and the fact that one of the sling points gave out 3 times (not sure if it's a flaw with the sling point or the rifle's sling mount), but when the rifle was slung with the barrel facing down and the sling point gave out, the barrel hit the ground from about 2 feet up. From then on, I noticed the shots were more or less straight, but they were.. angled, from left to right. The scope didn't hit the ground, it was just the barrel that hit the dirt at an angle, and I managed to catch the rifle before it completely fell over. It's not some cheapo airsoft scope that got knocked out of alignment, this is a real steel legit Vortex scope.

In other news, I'd also bought the Stalker variable weight piston for the Tac41, but.. there's basically no documentation on how to assemble it. Just a handful of weights, a spring guide, a ton of o-rings, a piston head, an airbreak, and two rings - one of which being a guide ring, and the other being the sear ring. Which ring is which? Where does each go? Nobody knows. I looked up a video of someone else using it and copied their assembly, and had zero air seal and a drop from 2.7J with the stock piston to a 2.3J with the Stalker piston, only to be told in the facebook group by Stalker that it's wrong.

I want to like this rifle. I really do. But for my playstyle of fast-paced, quick follow up shots, it's just not in the cards for me at the moment. If I could have it my way, I'd definitely get a shorter barrel and basically replicate my AS01 setup - Get a 330mm outer barrel and a ~417mm inner barrel, throw on my "mock" suppressor, get the SDiK for it, and voila - another faithful scout sniper setup.
Welp, I guess there's a good reason to stick with official products instead of aftermarkets and why you shouldn't use your barrel as a leverage point

In other news I got myself the steel piston body and the new O-ring piston head (because screw disassembling their piston and replace it, it's physically impossible without specialized tools which simply cannot be had in my tiny household). Weight is always gonna be some 90g even without any rings screwed onto it due to the total weight of the piston itself and the piston head.

So TLDR: The piston head O-ring needs a slight bit of lube and a bit of stretching, but compared to the orange airbrake head Silverback made a while ago it's more reliable in getting full seal and after that it notably extracts more joules, but is still quieter than a similar setup with the aluminum piston + airbrake cup head of similar weighting. Overall worth the money and does have a notable increase of performance.
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I want to like this rifle. I really do. But for my playstyle of fast-paced, quick follow up shots, it's just not in the cards for me at the moment.
Something something DMR.
SR25 etc could be a good option. Some bullpup with a polarstar also could be interesting.
I was watching a livestream with Sniper Mechanic on Friday and I recall him mentioning a company with a premium piston for the TAC that they rushed out before it was good that ended up sucking, hmmmmm.......

As for the long bolt pull, in the VSR-SS I'm making it's gonna have a .368 bolt pull, exactly enough to push the BB onto the R-hop patch the perfect amount but also enough to retract past there, the O-ring, and the diameter of a BB to load the next one.
That's about as good as you'll ever see that and it's pretty awesome and makes the sniper role really OP for me now.
I definitely recommend trying to shorten the bolt pull on the Mancraft you end up getting as it'll be all the difference.

Or go DMR like a lil bitch, and regret the loss of a decent amount of range.
DMR's is a future endeavor for me - but not now. There's just something a bit more satisfying about racking the bolt in between every shot - that you're making the shot count more than if you could just slew several BB's - my general take on a lot of non-bolt action roles. Additionally, I know that going down the DMR route will be much more expensive.. an SR-25 variant and a Wolverine Inferno puts me at over $600 by themselves, not to mention barrel+hopup upgrades, possible looking at $800+ altogether.
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Great thread. Faceless, I have to post this here because of what I just saw on your homepage. In several of those barrels, I saw the forward edge of the bucking window was cut on a forward angle.
Product Font Automotive tire Material property Automotive design



I had recently bought a 6.03 barrel and the shop ground that type of angled cut into it for me, as it had no bucking window in stock condition. I mentioned this angled cut on another (linked) airsoft site, and was told VOCIFEROUSLY by the admin there that he'd NEVER seen a barrel cut that way. When I mentioned that I would have to file it myself to straighten it out and make it like my stock barrel, I was admonished NOT to do so, and to leave the barrel as it was. I was confused, the barrel had what he'd described as a bad cut, but then I was told not to correct it and leave my rifle stock, when the whole purpose of that site seems to be builds and mods. So I filed it down on that front edge so it was like the stock barrel that had come in my rifle ( a Snow Wolf M24 ). I then put the stock bucking back on, and made a 'nub' of sorts from a piece of rubber tubing.
Can you tell me why they cut the bucking window with that type of angle on the forward edge?
Thanks!
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This takes away stress on the sealing rubber, since no sharp 90掳 edge once the nub pushing it. Also helps the rhop have a sort of better contact with the bb, more like centered on top of it. If you use a one piece rubber and tight chamber also preventing the window edges cuting into the rubber once pulling the chamber apart. Its really just a small detail...
As a diy solution I would also not recomend to file a stock window, its not really possible to do it precisely.
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This takes away stress on the sealing rubber, since no sharp 90掳 edge once the nub pushing it.
what about the 90 degrees edges of the sides?
Also helps the rhop have a sort of better contact with the bb, more like centered on top of it. If you use a one piece rubber and tight chamber also preventing the window edges cuting into the rubber once pulling the chamber apart. Its really just a small detail... As a diy solution I would also not recomend to file a stock window, its not really possible to do it precisely.
Sorry, I'm NOT using an 'R'-hop, just the stock bushing and hop-arm, although with a tiny peiece of strong rubber tubing beneath the 'points' of the hop arm, to (in my estimation) 'spread' the pressure a bit more evenly. When I installed the new barrel with the angled-front cut that the shop had made, I got almost NO movement of the hop-up adjustment arm, and the hop-up chamber didn't seem to habve any effect on the trajectory. After I pulled the barrel and filed the window to look more likie the stock one, it worked better.
Also, when I DID file down my new barrel so as to be more like the stock barrel, I also chamfered ALL the edges so that there were NO 90-degree edges, I used VERY fine sandpaper wrapped around a series of VERY small precision files bought specifically for that task, and all the 90-degree edges of the 'window' were smoothed/polished, just a bit, just enough to 'break' the sharpness of the edge.

Thanks for your response.
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I also polished the barrel before reinstalling it.
Thanks for your response.
Hey guys,
Got my T-41 2 weeks ago.
Pritty happy with prefoormance out of the box.
Shooting 0,32g bbs 330 fps (1-2 fps deviation).
Streight flight ~50 meters with hop-up set to 3.
At this range in calm weather groups 90% inside A4 format.

Yesterday got upgrades pack from skirmshop...
Silverback advanced piston with airbrake, SB 120N and 150N springs and few 70deg buckings. Off course spare mags...
Unfortunally i'm away fo a few days and not able to work on the gun.
This allaws me do some research but not much info so far.

What type of lubricant would you guys recommend for the advanced piston with the vton o-ring?

i watched the rifle assembly from scratch video from silverback.
The man use syringe with noname white grease(i assume silcone) for the piston rubber cap and spring guide rod.
Then he is spraing WD-40 PTFE dry lube in and outside the bolt cylinder.
But this is for the stock piston head...

Someone with experience on the life span of this viton o-ring?

I think there in no service o-ring kit fot that piston yet.
No info for the size of the vton ring.
Off cource i can test different sizes but the right one is critical specially for dynaic application.

I wrote to [email protected] no naswer yet.
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Hey guys,
Got my T-41 2 weeks ago.
Pritty happy with prefoormance out of the box.
Shooting 0,32g bbs 330 fps (1-2 fps deviation).
Streight flight ~50 meters with hop-up set to 3.
At this range in calm weather groups 90% inside A4 format.

Yesterday got upgrades pack from skirmshop...
Silverback advanced piston with airbrake, SB 120N and 150N springs and few 70deg buckings. Off course spare mags...
Unfortunally i'm away fo a few days and not able to work on the gun.
This allaws me do some research but not much info so far.

What type of lubricant would you guys recommend for the advanced piston with the vton o-ring?

i watched the rifle assembly from scratch video from silverback.
The man use syringe with noname white grease(i assume silcone) for the piston rubber cap and spring guide rod.
Then he is spraing WD-40 PTFE dry lube in and outside the bolt cylinder.
But this is for the stock piston head...

Someone with experience on the life span of this viton o-ring?

I think there in no service o-ring kit fot that piston yet.
No info for the size of the vton ring.
Off cource i can test different sizes but the right one is critical specially for dynaic application.

I wrote to [email protected] no naswer yet.
Silverback provides a small tube of silicon lube, but in practice PTFE spray works as well
Well... no lube in the box with the rifle.
I have Abbey silicone grease, WD-40 PTFE and Silicone SPECIALIST seris spray cans.
Glavanov, hope you're back outside and shooting. Do you have any shots of the rifle?
I came home late and didn't have time.
I just put in the 120N spring and left the stock piston.
Chrono measured 430 fps (~ 1-2 deviatin) 2.7J with 0.32g bbs.
I tried a few shots with a flashlight.
I noticed a significant improvement in range but it was too late and I was done for the evening.
It's harder to load the bolt, but without worrying about my physique.

I'm still waiting for 0.4g bbs to arrive. It is difficult to find .04+ in local markets.

Quite a concise answer from [email protected]
No service o-ring kit for the advanced piston head but they gave the viton ring size 19.8x2
Closest size I found to the local market is 19.8x1.98. Will see how it goes with maintenance...
No advice on lubrication products. I guess thin coat of Abbey silicone grease will get the job done...

When have time i'll test 150N spring and advanced piston with airbrake hopefully with 0.4g bbs.
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The setup...
Spring: SB 150N
Piston: SB advanced piston with the short air brake nose installed
Bucking: stock 60 deg. hopup set on 5
BBs: 0.4g

measur械ment...
Speed: ~412 fps (126m/s ~1 deviation)
Muzzle energy: ~3.14J

At 200-250 feet it's a scalpel even in a quiet wind.
when the wind dies down at 330 feet I hit an adult-sized target 3 out of 5 times with 3-4 dots elevation (UTG 3-12x44 mil-dot zoom at 6-8)

I tried the medium length air brake nose but the speed dropped to 365 fps (2.46J)
Of course it's quieter, but I'll stick to the short one and add a moderator.
it's a cool feture.
I can play around with springs and air brake nose lenght to match field restrictions.

Perfect setup for me... when the stock bucking wears out I will try the 70 deg...
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Light Gas Electronics accessory Machine Cleanliness

So I am assed enough to buy myself a second TAC-41 entirely for a box opening review (that has been probably years too late), and this one is notably more consistent than my first鈥︹unno why.

Either way, having the gun completely disassembled and reassembled I still think this is probably the easiest airsoft BASR to work on, literally no need to strip it down to undo anything particularly important (cylinder and barrel could be accessed without a takedown of the stock unlike say the VSR or the SSG24), although I still would appreciate if it has most of the Allen Keys needed to detail strip it from the stock
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